Rok Hwang is set to infuse his distinctive style into the retail giant’s offerings, bringing his unique twists on trench coats and wardrobe staples.
Reflecting on past experiences, including an adventurous night spent camping outside an H&M store in downtown Brooklyn for a coveted Kenzo collaboration piece, I recently shared with H&M’s head of design, Ann-Sofie Johansson, the enduring impact of such fashion moments. Johansson resonated with the sentiment, emphasizing the power of fashion to create lasting memories and evoke emotions.
For the latest designer collaboration, kept under wraps until the official announcement, H&M has teamed up with ROKH, a London-based brand founded by designer Rok Hwang in 2016. Johansson expressed her fascination with how these collaborations have transcended mere clothing releases to become cultural phenomena, fostering memorable experiences for fashion enthusiasts worldwide.
While ROKH may not yet boast the household recognition of previous collaborators like Kenzo or Simone Rocha, Johansson was drawn to the brand’s ability to reimagine wardrobe essentials with an experimental edge. In a time where consumers, regardless of age, seek clothing investments that resonate with their personal style, ROKH’s approach aligns perfectly with H&M’s vision.
Hwang, whose background includes stints at esteemed fashion houses like Phoebe Philo’s Céline and winning the Special Prize at the LVMH prize in 2018, shares Johansson’s enthusiasm for the collaboration. He founded ROKH with the intention of reimagining essential wardrobe pieces, emphasizing adaptability and personal styling.
During a showroom tour, Hwang doesn’t merely showcase each piece but demonstrates the versatility of styling options. Among his favorites from the collaboration are the trench coats, a signature ROKH garment that epitomizes the brand’s ethos of artisan imperfection and modern elegance.
“We are renowned for our trench coats,” he emphasized. “So, for this H&M collaboration, we wanted to bring that iconic piece to the forefront. You can completely remove this lapel part, transforming it into a single-layer trench.” Demonstrating, he highlighted the accessibility of buttons. “I often like to add more buttons than usual. It adds a playful, edgy touch to it.” Encouraging me to envision it, he described how he sometimes unevenly buttons it up: “Just to break the rules and create a completely new silhouette.”
His design approach, he confessed, is “technically, completely wrong!” However, he relishes how it “beautifully adapts to the body.” For H&M, he aimed to provide customers with the opportunity to build their wardrobes with what he considers his core collection. “I wanted to craft a line that could stand the test of time, transcending moments to become timeless pieces that continue to resonate with wearers.”
Hwang is deeply invested in the movement of his designs. Demonstrating, he lightly nudged each piece, allowing me to witness their fluidity on the hanger. “I love exploring the movement of garments on the human body. My approach involves capturing the flow of fabric down the body, creating pieces that offer a departure from traditional garment construction. I aimed to maintain this ethos while crafting something inherently beautiful. I wanted to introduce a signature ROKH aesthetic to the world.”
With an array of trench coats adorned with multiple buttons, double-studded belted blazers, and skirts featuring versatile fastenings, Hwang’s vision is evident throughout the collection. He eagerly anticipates seeing how wearers interpret his designs: “I derive immense joy from observing people wearing ROKH on the streets. Therefore, having the opportunity to bring my design language to an international stage with this collaboration was incredibly exciting for me.”
